A

Adams, Karl, 197

Aebi, Tania, 182–183

Agulhas Current, 19, 79, 85, 118, 188–189, 203, 221, 239–240, 248

Aikau, Eddie, 174–175

Akiskalian, Eric, 121–123

Alaska Current, 79

Alexander Kielland, 206–207

America, 133

American Society of Naval Engineers, 233

Andaman Island. See Sumatra-Andaman Island earthquake of December 26, 2004

Anderson, Mark, 119–120

Anguilla, 199

Antarctica, 31–32

APL China, 220, 241

Arab traders, 18–19

Arabian Sea, 18, 59, 218

Arctic Ocean, 16

Argentina, 20

Arica, Chile, 133

Armada de Molucca, 19

Around the World Alone Race, 74–79, 189

Arthur M. Anderson, 204–205

Athletic shoes, as current indicators, 36–37

Atigun Pass, 202

Atlantic Ocean, 16–19, 35, 84–87, 97, 162

Australia Current, 27

Avalon Harbor, xx

Average depth of the oceans, 15

Azores, 96

B

Badger, 139–140

Baja California, Mexico, xix, 11, 17, 92, 242

Balance Bar, 75–78

Balboa Peninsula, xix, 228

Ballast, 124, 232–233

Ballast Point (Catalina Island), 124, 233

Baltic Sea, 18, 118

Banda Aceh, Indonesia, 152

Barker, Ernie, 138, 207–209

Barometer, 42–44, 84, 88, 91, 97–98

Barth, Joe, 201–202

Bascom, Willard, 3

Bass Strait, 25–29

Bay of Bengal, 18, 103–104, 150, 158

Beach, Edward L., Sr., 67

Beaufort, Sir Francis, 41

Beaufort Wind Scale, 41–42

Benjamin-Feir instability index, 240, 250

Bering Sea, 79

Bermuda High, 96

Bermuda Triangle, 8

Bernstein, Karl, 34

Blinsinger, Chase, 195–196

Board of Trade, certificate of seaworthiness, 188

Bobsled, 28

Borneo, 18, 218

Bradshaw, Ken, 116–117

Brady, Cornelius, 177–178

Breaking waves, 62–64

Bremen, 193, 197

Brindabella, 27–28

Broaching, 179

Brown, Emlyn, 190

Bryant, Edward, 133

Bulk carriers, 3–4, 53–54, 209–210, 219–220, 223–225, 235–236

high loss rate, 223, 245

Buoyancy force, 232

Burma Plate, 149, 152

C

Caledonian Star, 184–185,193

California, seismic design codes in, 228

California Current, 34

California Yacht Club, 124, 154, 233

Calm seas, 11–24

Canary Islands, tsunami potential, 162

Cape Horn, 75–77

Cape of Good Hope, 18–19, 26, 79, 85, 188, 218

Cape Verde Islands, 35, 97, 200

Capillary waves, 12, 25, 38

Cargados Carajos Shoals, 126

Caribbean Sea, 16

Cargo ships, 220

Carl D. Bradley, 204

Carlsen, Henrik Kurt, 180–183

Carnival Cruise Lines, 221

Catalina Express, 71–72

Catalina Island, xviii, xx, 66, 71, 93–94, 167, 175, 207, 233

Cat’s paws, 38

Central America, 7

Challenger Deep, 20

Channel Islands, 34, 47, 61, 93, 124, 237

Chen, Henry, 241

Chile earthquake, May 22, 1960, 135–136

China, 9, 18

Christiansen, Bent, 137–138

Chubasco, 93

Clan McIntyre, 188

Clarke, Valerie, 71

Classification societies, 222

Cold fronts, 73–74

Columbus, Christopher, 19, 31, 89–90

Combination carriers (OBOs), 219

Coming Back Alive, 80

Composite waves, 49–54

components of, 52

Confused seas, 88, 107, 111–112, 164–183, 192

defining, 177

Constructive interference (superposition), 49–51, 207–210, 249

Container ships, 3–4, 20–21, 36, 119, 217, 220–221, 225, 228

Continental shelf, and shallow seas, 205–207

Cook, Captain James, 25–26, 171

Cooper, Jessie B., 204

Coriolis force, 30, 33

Cortes Bank, xix, 116, 119

COSPAS-SARSAT network, 80

Crescent City, California, 136, 161

Crete, 130–131

Cross, Rear Adm. Bill, 86

Crozet Islands, 79, 189

Cussler, Clive, 190

Cycloids, inverted, 60

Cygnus Voyager, 6, 219

D

da Gama, Vasco, 19

Dampier, William, 32, 132

Daniel, Mann, Johnson and Mendenhall, 229

Davidson Current, 37

Davy Jones’s locker, 226–246

Dead reckoning, 39

Deadweight tonnage, 217

Deep water, waves in, 14, 56, 61, 63, 98, 115, 144, 203

Derbyshire, 53–54, 220, 222–225, 235, 238, 245

postmortem of the loss of, 222–225

Design

of offshore structures, 230–231

of port and coastal facilities, 227–230

of ships, 216–219, 231–235, 238, 246

Destructive interference, 49–50

Diaz, Bartolomeu, 19

Diffraction, 166

Dispersion, 61, 111, 165

Distinguished Flying Cross, 82

Dixon, Harold, 83–84

Doldrums, 31

Dominant period, 21

Dominican Republic, 67

Double-hulled tankers, 219, 221

Draft (or draught), 217, 241

Drag coefficient, 40

Draupner oil platform

wave height on January 1, 1995, 192, 209

waves on, 207, 211

Dreams, 11, 16, 25, 47–48, 66–67, 71, 80, 92, 164, 167, 173, 175, 187, 208, 237, 240, 242–243

Drift, 34

Dwight D. Eisenhower (aircraft carrier), 86–87

E

Earthquake Engineering Research Institute, 161

Earthquakes.

See also Tsunamis;

and individual earthquakes

unpredictable as yet, 245

unpreventable, 227

Earth’s oceans and seas (Table 1), 16

East China Sea, 18

Ebbesmeyer, Curtis, 37

Edmund Fitzgerald, 204–205

Edrie, 139

Ekman transport, 33

Ekofisk North Sea oil field, 8, 206–207

Ellison, Larry, 27–28

Emerald Bay, 66

Emergency position indication radio beacon (EPIRB), 80–81

Energy, of waves, 5–6, 15, 23, 29, 41, 50, 62, 67, 98, 111–113, 124–125, 163, 167–169, 192, 202, 239, 249–250

EPIRB. See Emergency position indication radio beacon

Esprit d’ Corp, 27–28

Eurasian Plate, 128

European Space Agency, 244

Evacuation warnings, 145

Evelina, 126

Extratropical cyclones, 74, 88

Extreme surfing, 116–117

Extreme waves, 6, 8, 14, 22, 41, 49, 54–56, 99, 116, 121, 145–146, 185, 187, 189, 193, 199–200, 205–207, 210–214, 221–222, 224, 227, 230–231, 242, 245, 247–250

evidence for, 212, 215

predicting, 243–244

probable causes, 247–248

recent research on, 247–250

riding, 118–121

Exxon Boston, 137–138

Exxon New Orleans, 137–138

Exxon North Slope, 137–138

Exxon Valdez disaster, 216

F

Fantome, tragedy of, 106–107

Fee, Jerry, 233

Fetch, 38–41, 88, 248

maximum, 235

Flying Enterprise, 180–182

Foo, Mark, 117

Forecast accuracy, 105–106

for hurricanes, 105–106

Fourier, Jean Baptiste Joseph, 22

Fourier analysis, 22

Fourier transform, 22, 49–50

Freak waves, 56, 193

Freedom America, 78–79

“furious fifties,” 45

Future risk areas, 159–163

G

Gallimore, Skip, 194–197

Galveston, Texas, 104

Garrett, Chris, 248

Garrison, Keith, 207

Gioiello, Tony, 228–229

Glacier Bay National Park, 139–140

Global positioning satellite instrument, 69

Global significant wave heights, 58

Gravity waves, 12, 38–39

Great Lakes, 203, 205

Greenland, 18

Grouper, 191–192

Grunion, 5

Guadalupe Island (Mexico), 92

Guam, 4, 20, 201, 218

Gulf of Alaska, 79, 137

Gulf of Mexico, 7, 73, 102, 104, 109, 205, 230–231

Gulf Stream, 7, 191, 239–240, 248

Gulf War, 86

Gyres, 35

H

Hadley, George, 31

Hadley cells, 31

Hansa Carrier, 36

Hanson, Jen, 198

Harrison, Jon, 220, 241

Hawaiian Volcano Observatory seismic network, 143

Heaving to, 178, 180

Herodotus, 18

Highs, 42–44

Hilo, Hawaii, 9, 134–135

Hindcasts, 102, 213

Hirshorn, Barry, 141, 146–147, 158

HM Bark Endeavor, 26

Ho, Cheng, 18

Hogging, 190, 234–235

Hokkaido earthquake of July 12, 1993, 230

Hokule’a, 173–175

Holdsworth, Ray, 84, 123

Homer, 6, 17, 38, 185

Horse latitudes, 31

Huntington Beach, xvii, 87, 114, 160

Hurricane Andrew, 96

“hurricane bow,” 202

Hurricane Iniki, 196

Hurricane Katrina, 99, 104, 108, 149

Hurricane Luis, 200

Hurricane Mitch, 95, 106

Hurricane Roxanne, 102

Hurricane tracks, 105

Hurricanes, 7, 56, 69, 89–90, 95–96, 99–103, 107–109, 187, 200

deadliest in the continental United States, 100–101

forecasting, 99–103, 105–106

a record season, 107–109

storm surges and hurricane-induced flooding, 103–105

typical life cycle, 97–99

wind-wave patterns from, 96–97

worst, 109

See also Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Scale;

Tropical cyclones;

Typhoons

I

Iceland, 18

Idealized waves, 13–15, 48, 63

not realistic, 21

properties of, 14

Incorporated Research Institutions for Seismology (IRIS), 143

Indian Ocean, 17–18, 31, 79, 85, 91, 125, 128, 147, 149, 151, 159, 188, 215, 218, 228

Indian Plate, 149, 152

Indonesia, 9, 18, 128, 146, 215

Infragravity waves, 12

Interbox connectors (IBCs), 220

Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission, 69, 141

International Association of Classification Societies (IACS), The, 223–224

Recommendation 34, 224

International Convention on Load Lines, 238

International Maritime Organization, 23

Intertropical Convergence Zone, 31, 33

Irene, 180

J

Jannsen, Jan, 202–203

Japan, 9

Japanese tsunami, 132

Jason 1 satellite, 158

Jason and the Golden Fleece, 185

Java, 85, 140

Joint Tanker Project, 224

Joubert, Peter, 29

Junger, Sebastian, 194

K

Kaiwi Channel, 174

Kamsin wind, 32

Karess, xviii, 34

Kauai Channel, xi, 197

Kerguelen Islands, 79, 189

Kim, Gene, 151–157

King Cruiser, 152

Kingurra, 29

Kinsman, Blair, 22

Knots

defining, 39

wind and wave speed in, 39–40

Koh Phi Phi Island, 151–153, 158

map of, 153

Kowloon Bridge, 54

Krakatoa, 126, 130, 140, 166, 215

Kuroshio Current, 53, 191, 239–240

Kuu Huapala, 197

L

La Conte, 80, 82

La Palma, 162

Labrador Current, 195

Lady Alice, 194–197

Laie Point, Oahu, 135

Lehner, Susanne, 213, 243–244, 249

Lewis, David, 171, 173

Lewis, Peter, 26–27, 29–30

Lightering, 218

Lightfoot, Gordon, 204

Lisbon, 133

Lituya Bay, 1, 79, 139, 146, 215

Lloyds of London, 222

Casualty List, 3

certificate of seaworthiness, 188

Load line, 236

Long Beach, 160

Los Angeles Times, 117

Loss rate, high for bulk carriers, 223, 245

Lows, 42–44

notable, 44–45

Lyman-Mersereau, Marion, 174

M

M/V Explorer, 197–198

M/V MSC Carla, 4

MacArthur, Ellen, 45

Madagascar, 85, 151

Magellan (Fernão Magalhães), 19–20

Maintenance, of vessels, 225

Maldives, 151

Marina Del Rey, California, 11, 16, 34, 72–73, 154, 233

Marine, 7

Marine Electric, 235–239

loss of, 235–239

Marine weather, forecasting and routing, 239–242

Maritime safety. See Ship safety

Maritime transport, evolution of, 217–222

Marx, Robert, 132

MaxWave project, 212–213

Mayday, 2, 28, 204

Mediterranean Sea, 16, 17–18

Metacentric height (GM), 232, 241

Michelangelo, 199

Midway Island, 173

Miller, Mike, 202

Minimum design, for wave heights, 225

Mistral, 32

Mobi (B&Q), 45–46

Modeling waves, 20–24

Modified Sieberg Tsunami Intensity Scale, 145

Monsoons, 59

Moore, Dan, 117, 119–120

Mount St. Helens, 163

Munk, Walter Heinrich, 22

Myles, Douglas, 131

N

Nailsea Meadow, 190

Napoleon, 22

National Hurricane Center, 97, 106

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), 37, 57, 61, 118, 241

typical marine weather wind-wave forecast from, 57

National Research Council, 216

National Seismic Network, 143

National Weather Service, 97, 107, 109

weather faxes from, 92, 194

Nazca Plate, 128

Nepenthe, 207–209

Neptune Sapphire, 188, 190–191

New Zealand to Tonga race disaster, 44–45

Newfoundland, 18, 58, 84, 91, 162, 193, 200

Newport, Rhode Island, 79

Newport Beach, California, 14, 62, 111

Newport Harbor, xvii, 93–94, 161, 169–170

Newport Harbor Nautical Museum, 94, 173

Newton’s law of universal gravitation, 11

Nike shoes, 36

NOAA. See National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

North Atlantic, 84–87

North Atlantic Treaty Organization, 86

North Equatorial Current, 34–35

North Sea, 8, 54, 180–181, 187, 191, 206, 210, 215, 230–231

Northeast Trade Winds, 19, 31, 34

O

OBOs. See Combination carriers

Occluded front, 88

Ocean currents, 33–36

strong, 188–192

Ocean exploration, history of, 18–19

Ocean surface winds, 33

Ocean Systems, Inc., 241

Ocean waves, types of, 13

Oceans. See individual oceans

Oceanweather, Inc., 242

Odysseus, 6–7, 17, 185

Odyssey, The , 6, 17, 38

Offshore structure design, 230–231

Oil platforms, 29

Oistad, Erik, 242

Okhotsk Sea, 16

Old Testament tsunamis, 131

Orbital motion, 192

Osthav, 180

P

Pacific High, 30, 42, 97

Pacific Ocean, 16–17, 25, 32, 36–37, 42, 97, 111, 124, 127–128, 141–145, 171–175, 218, 241

Pacific Tsunami Warning Center, 142, 146–147, 149, 158–159

Palos Verde tsunami (scenario), 161

Pampero, 32

Panamax, 217

Papua New Guinea tsunami, 147, 160

Paragon, 94

Parametric rolling, 221

Pararas-Carayannis, George, 69

Paxton, George, 197

Perfect Storm, The , 194

Periodic function, 22

Periods, 12–15, 23, 34, 49–50, 56, 62–64, 69, 96, 118, 125, 138, 212, 240, 250

dominant, 21

return, 210

Persian Gulf, 18–19, 86, 218

Philippine Sea, 20

Phoenicians, 18

Phuket Island, Thailand, 151–153

Piailug, Mau, 171, 173–174

Pine Ridge, 225

Pitchpoling, 63, 179

Pittsburgh, 201

Plimsoll marks, 236

Polynesian navigation, by wave patterns, 170–175

Port of Los Angeles, 71, 137, 209, 220, 228–229

Port Royal, Jamaica, 132

Portuguese navigators, 19, 162, 188

Poseidon, 7, 17, 227

Prince William Sound earthquake, 136

Probability, of large waves, 54–59

Punta del Este, 77–78

Q

Qiantang River, 65–66

Queen Elizabeth, 194

Queen Elizabeth 2, 109, 185–186, 200, 215, 221

Queen Mary, 193–194

R

Rayleigh distribution, 55, 249

of wave heights, 55

Recurving, storm paths, 96–97, 108

Red Sea, 18–19

Reedy, Mark, 71

Reef break, 115

Reflection, of waves, 61, 166–169

Refraction, of waves, 61, 166–169

Remijan, Mark, 220, 241

Rescue Coordination Center, 81

Rescues, 28–29, 44, 79–82, 102–103, 122

Resonant effect, 40

Return period, 210

Rhodius, Apollonius, 185

Rift zones, 162–163

Ring of Fire, 127–128, 141

“roaring forties,” 45

Rogue Wave, 209

Rogue waves, 4, 8, 56, 81, 109, 115, 178, 181, 186, 188, 191–192, 195–199, 202, 209, 213, 234, 237, 244–245, 249

causes and characteristics of, 185–187

Rolling, parametric, 221

Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd., 221

Ruau-Moko, 127, 227

S

Safety. See Ship safety

Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Scale, 95–96

Sagging, 234–235

Salerno, Ugo, 224

San Andreas Fault zone, 159

San Clemente Island, 92–93

San Diego, 114

San Pedro, California, 160

San Pedro Channel, 66, 72, 187

Sansinena II, 137–138

Santa Ana winds, 32, 114–115

Santa Barbara Island, 34, 208

Santa Monica Bay, xviii, 34

Santa Rosa Island, 47, 237

Santo Domingo Harbor, 67

Santorini Islands, 130

Satellites, 58, 76, 80, 89, 97, 102, 106–107, 125, 144, 158, 176, 196, 213, 220, 227, 240–241, 243–244

Sayonara, 27–28

Scantlings, 234

“screaming sixties,” 45

Scotch Cap lighthouse, 9, 134–135

Scripps Institution of Oceanography, 22, 118

Sea anchors, 179

Sea clutter, 243

Sea of Cortez, 17, 92

Sea of Japan, 18, 139

Sea severity, 109

Seal Beach, 160

Seas, 7, 12, 18, 21, 23, 27, 29, 35–36, 40, 45–47, 53–54, 58, 62, 72–73, 79, 81–82, 85–86, 88, 150, 165, 169, 179–181, 189, 194–195, 201–202, 204, 221, 232, 237–238, 248

calm, 11–24

storm-tossed, 71–109

Seascape, 125–126

Seiches, 65, 144

Seismic design codes, 228

Seismic sea waves, 128–129

Seismometers, 23

Semester at Sea Program, 197–198

Sets

of currents, 35, 171

of waves, 15, 56, 61, 111, 179

Shallow seas, and the continental shelf, 205–207

Shallow water, waves in, 14, 56, 115, 203–204

Shema, Rick, 242

Ship design, 216–219, 231–235

“Ship of Gold,” 7–8

Ship safety, 216–225

crews being sent to sea to die needlessly, 245–246

increasing, 223

Shipwrecks, reasons for, 2–4

Shoaling, 61, 72

Sidereal compass, 172

Significant wave heights, 21, 99, 118, 210, 235

global, 58

Sine waves, 13, 22, 49–51

Single-hulled tankers, 225

Sirocco, 32

Sitting Tall, xx

Sixty Mile Bank, 11, 16, 24

Small craft advisory, 42

Smith, Nancy, 187

Snow, George, 27

Solitary waves, 176

Solitons, 176

SOS. See Mayday

South China Sea, 18

South Equatorial Current, 34–35

Southeast Asia tsunami. See Sumatra-Andaman Island earthquake of December 26, 2004

Southern Ocean, 26, 59, 77–78, 184, 188–189, 193

Spanish Armada, 226

Spanish navigators, 7, 19, 89, 162

Spatial focusing, 249

Spencer, Russell, 242

Spice Islands, 19–20

Squalls, 82–84

Sri Lanka, 150

SS Lane Victory, 138, 209

SS Pennsylvania, 177–178

SS United States, 6

SS Waratah, 188–190, 232, 245

St. Barthélémy, 199

St. Martin Island, 199

Stand Aside, 28–29

Stars, zenith, 173

Steepness, of waves, 63–64

Stokes, George G., 21

Storm surges, and hurricane-induced flooding, 103–105

Storms, 89–95, 192–205

origins of, 73–74

Straits of Gibraltar, 18

Subduction, 149

Subic Bay, 85

Suez Canal, 217–218

Sumatra, 8, 18, 85, 128, 140, 146, 148–152, 158–159, 176, 218

Sumatra-Andaman Islands earthquake of December 26, 2004, 8–9, 128, 147–163, 176, 226

Sunda Straits, 85, 140, 152

Sunda trench, 152

Sunmore, 139

Superposition, 49–51, 207–210, 249

Surfing, 110, 112–115

extreme, 116–117

Survival strategies, 178–180

Sverdrup, Harald Ulrik, 22

Swells, 12, 110–126, 170

defining, 111–112

large, 112–113

long-period travelers, 123–124

in midocean, 124–126

tracking, 117–118

see also Surfing

Sword of Orion, 28

Sydney-Hobart race, 25–29

Synthetic aperture, 243

T

Tankers, 3–4, 137, 202, 209–210, 216–219, 224–225, 232, 236

defective, 224

double-hulled, 219, 221

single-hulled, 225

Tasman Sea, 26, 29, 209

Teal Arrow, 200

Tempests, 71–109

Temporal focusing, 249

TEUs (twenty-foot equivalent units), 217

Texas Tower 4, 206

Thailand, 9, 18, 151–152

Theodora, 237

Thira (Thera) Island, 130

map of, 131

Thomas, Steve, 171

Thompson, Tommy, 7

“Three Sisters,” 69, 186, 205, 209

Thunderstorms, 87

TI Europe, 218–219

Tidal bores, 65–66

Tidal streams, 32, 176

Tides, the pull of the moon, 64–65

Time history, 23

Titanic, xviii, 193

Torricelli, Evangelista, 42

Towsurfing, 121–123

Trade winds, 32–33

Transtidal waves, 12

Treasure Fleet, Chinese, 18

Tropic of Cancer, 74

Tropical cyclones, 89–90, 240

Tropical depressions, 44, 53, 69, 89–90, 92, 97

Tsunami bulletins, 141–142

Tsunami Intensity Scale, 145–147

Tsunamis, 6, 8–9, 15, 63, 69, 127–147, 149–151, 154, 163, 176, 226–227

in ancient times, 130–132

caused by landslides and volcanoes, 139–140

characteristics of, 128–130

diving under a killer, 151–159

education programs, 244

historically significant, 132–133

Japanese, 132

Old Testament, 131

recent examples, 133–139

the “Ring of Fire,” 127–128

travel time in hours, in the Chile earthquake, May 22, 1960, 136

tsunami intensity scale, 145–147

walls, 230

warning systems, 140–145, 227, 245

wave height and run-up, 129

Turmoil, 181–182

Tyne Bridge, 53

Typhoon Orchid, 53, 222, 235

Typhoon Paka, 4

Typhoons, 4, 53, 89, 90, 192, 200–201, 222

U

Ulrich, Howard, 139

Ultra large crude carriers (ULCCs), 218

Ultragravity waves, 12

Unimak Island, Alaska, 9, 134, 135

United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization, 69, 141

U.S. Air Force Reserve, 106

U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 228

U.S. Coast Guard, 9, 80–81, 237

U.S. Department of Commerce, 57

U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), 143

U.S. Naval Academy, 233

U.S. Navy, 99

USS Castine, 68

USS Forrestal, 84–85, 201

USS Hancock, 201

USS Memphis, 67–70

USS Ramapo, 211–212, 215

wave height measurement scheme on, 214

USS Taylor, 233

V

Valley Forge, 202

Van Liew, Brad, 74–75, 79, 189

Van Liew, Meaghan, 74, 78

Velella velella, 5

Very large crude carriers (VLCC), 218

Vessel Optimization and Safety System (VOSS), 241–242

Victoria, 20

Vikings, 18

Volcanic calderas, 162

W

Wachs, Faye, 151–157

Walker, Spike, 80

“WAM” site, 118

Warantah, 188–190

Warm fronts, 73

Warning systems, tsunami, 140–145, 227, 245

Warps, 179

Warwick, Peter, 185–186, 200

Wateree, 133

Waterspouts, 87

Watkins, Bill, 124

Wave addition, 49

Wave amplitude, 13, 75

Wave buildup, near shore, 66–70

Wave diffraction, 166, 169–170

at the Newport Harbor entrance, 171

Wave forecasting algorithms, 243

Wave heights, 13–15, 21–22, 39–41, 50–51, 54–59, 62, 75–76, 99, 106, 118, 125, 129, 135–136, 140–141, 160, 165, 185–186, 196–197, 201, 210–213, 217, 224–225, 231, 244, 250.

See also significant wave heights

minimum design for, 225

versus wind speed, duration, and fetch, 41

Wave interactions, 166–167

Wave interference, destructive and constructive, 49–51

Wave modeling, 20–24

Wave movement, 59–61

Wave patterns, Polynesian navigation by, 170–175

Wave properties, 13–16

Wave reflection, 167

Wave refraction, 167–168

Wave speed, 14, 62, 167

Wave steepness, 15, 64, 244

Wave types, 12–13

Wavelength, 13–15, 49, 62–63, 125, 128–129, 167, 188, 192, 203, 213, 221, 235, 244

Weather forecasts, 105–106

Weather Reconnaissance Squadron, 106

Weather routers, 242

“The Wedge” (surfing spot), 114

Weinstein, Stuart, 141

Wessel, Paul, 145

White, Linda, 125

White, Tod, 125

Wind speed, 39

Wind waves, 37–39

growth of, 40–41

patterns from a hurricane, 98

theory of, 23

Wind Waves, 22

Winston Churchill, 29

World Glory, 188, 190

World merchant fleet, 217–218

distribution of vessels in, 218

“The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald,” 204

Y

Young, Samuel, 104–105

Youngquist, Andy, xx

Z

Zenith stars, 173

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